From Copacabana we headed towards Puno. The border was just 12 miles away and despite the lack of an early start we made it to the frontier before the usual tour buses. Crossing was quick and easy, about 40 minutes in total if that, then perhaps two hours to get to Puno.

Puno itself wasn’t our destination, but we needed cash, lunch, and local sim cards. None of which were a problem. The problem was getting out of the blasted place. Like many other towns in Peru (as we’ve since found out) the police seem to close roads on a whim. Pretty much every main exit north was blocked, so after spending an hour or so taking care of business in town, we spent nearly that again trying exit.

Once we had escaped the urban sprawl we were on route to Sillustani, and its pre-incan burial ground. Sam was less than pleased when I told her we’d be camping the night there. Perhaps she thought ancient pre-Incan mummys would rise from the dead and cause bother in the night.

As we couldn’t pitch our tent until the attraction closed at 17h we took a walk up to the hill to the burial ground proper. Without really knowing the history of the place, much of it looks like a bunch of old (interesting) rocks, all except the tower-like chullpas or tombs.


Of course, like everywhere else in Peru, there was an old woman with an alpaca/llama/vicuna type creature.



We survived the night without any ghosts, gouls, or other supernatural beings harassing us. In fact the only disturbances were the security guards that constantly patrol the area blowing whistles as if at an early 90s rave.

Having heard that Juliana is a bit of a whole, I decided to plot an alternative route that would avoid the town entirely. So off we set for Cusco along 40 miles of dirt roads before hitting the highway. Not bad for an early morning’s work.

On route to Cusco

With 260 miles to cover we stopped for precious few photos, but made good progress reaching the city mid-afternoon. Our first choice accommodation was Hostal Estrellita, but when arrived we were told it was full and to come back next week. Strange being as there’s no way to book a room online and I doubt they’d had many telephone bookings.

In any case we ended up at Jamuy. A seemingly unfinished (or at least in need of some work) hostel close to the city’s main square (Plaza de Armas). A good choice, at short notice. Here’s the view from our (second) room: