Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world. I’ve been fortunate enough to visit this marvel twice. Once in 2015, and again more recently. Both times without a guide.
In this article, I’ll share how you can enjoy your own self-guided trek to the bottom of what has been said to be the second deepest canyon in the world.
About Colca Canyon
Stretching twice the depth of the Grand Canyon, Colca Canyon is one of the world’s most impressive natural formations. At 3,300 meters deep the canyon’s steep walls showcase ancient agricultural terraces, while Andean condors soar overhead on thermal currents.
Local communities maintain their traditional way of life along the canyon’s edges, offering homestays and basic amenities to passing trekkers.
The rugged landscape features natural hot springs, varied hiking trails, and spectacular viewpoints that make independent exploration particularly rewarding for those seeking adventure.
Getting to Cabanaconde
Cabanaconde is the main jump off point for hiking in Colca Canyon, and where you’ll likely spend the night before you start your hike.
Getting there from Arequipa by bus relatively straightforward. You can buy your buss ticket from Terminal Terreste for around 20 soles $5. There are three buses a day (mostly in the night). The journey itself takes almost 7 hours. you can view the bus schedule here.
From Cusco or Puno
There’s no direct transport from Cusco or Puno. Instead you’d need to make your way to Chivay, then get a bus to Cabanaconde from there.
Eitherway it’s going to be a long journey. Fights from Cusco to Arequipa start at around $50. It might be better to fly to Arequipa (arguably Peru’s nicest city), then travel from there.
How long should you spend
How long you spend depends on the route you do, but even if only doing an overnight trek, you’ll want to at least spend one night in Cabanaconde, so you can wake up early and start your trek the next morning.
To avoid rushing, it would be better to spend the night before and the night after your trek in Cabanaconde, but many people do race back to Arequipa (a 7 hour journey).
How to buy the ticket (boleto turistico)
On my second visit to the region, I’d completely forgot that you need a ticket to enter Colca Canyon. When I was stopped by the side of the road by an elderly gentleman without uniform or ID, I was surprised to find that I had to pay 70 soles ($23) for a ticket to enter.
After a bit of wrangling, I was given the ‘Latino’ discount as they called it. At $11 it’s far better value than the ‘foreigners’ ticket, but even if you pay full price, the views are definitely worth it.
If you’re entering by bus, ticket sellers will come on the bus in Chivay. Otherwise you can buy the ticket in Cabanaconde itself.
The tourist ticket gives you 3 days within the region. It’s collected by locals with the fees supposedly going to improvement for local community, and maintaining the trails.
Colca canyon map
Pachamama is the place to stay for backpackers and hikers visiting Colca Canyon, but even if you don’t stay there (it’s expensive), it’s worth visiting and having a chat with the staff. They are extremely knowledgeable about the Canyon and its hiking routes, and sell the best map of the region.
The map will cost you 10 soles (about $2), and is invaluable for hiking some of the longer routes. It also makes a nice keepsake, or memento of your adventure.
Colca Canyon hike routes (Choose your route)
There are multiple different hikes you can take through or across Colca Canyon. The most shortest and easiest (it’s not easy) of the which is the hike down from Cabanaconde to the oasis Sangalle at the bottom of that canyon.
The route you choose will depend on your time, fitness, and what you actually want to do or see.
2 day hikes
Cabanaconde – Sangalle (stay) – Cabanaconde
Distance: <10km
Duration: 6 hours
This the hike I’ve done, and whilst it’s the shortest, and easiest (relative term), don’t let that fool you. It is still an extremely challenging hike, especially the hike back up to Cabanaconde the next morning, when your legs are still tired from the day before.
There are a few reasons why I love this short hike:
- You’re not spending all day walking in the sun
- You have more time to relax in Sangalle (which is usually empty during the day)
- More time to take in the scenery without being on the move
The main downside of this hike is that you go back up the same way you come down. Typically I prefer to hike in loops, but this is the exception.
Some guides have described this as the most touristy route, but despite being short, you’re still unlikely to see more than a couple of hikers the whole time you are on the route.
Sangalle itself, does get busier in the evening when hikers from other routes arrive, but it’s never crowded, and there’s great atmosphere of exploration and adventure.
Cabanaconde – San Jaun de Chuccho (stay) – Sangalle – Cabanaconde
Distance: 20km
Duration: 10 hours
A longer trek with a walk through San Jaun de Chuccho and an overnight stay in Sangalle.
While you get to spend more time on the canyon, this hike just didn’t appeal to me. It means a very long first day, and steep hike the second day. You don’t get any time relaxing in Sangalle.
You do get views of the other side of the canyon though. In my opinion you’re better turning this into a three day hike, so enjoy spending a night in both San Jaun and Sangalle.
An alternative is to hike east to San Jaun de Chuccho, then continuing on, down into the canyon and spending the night at Sangalle. The downside is that it makes for a long first day, and you get less time by the pool. The upside is you get the atmosphere of Sangalle in the evening.
Cabanaconde – Llahuar (stay) – Sangalle – Cabanaconde
Distance: 25km
Duration: 12 hours
This loops takes you out west to Llanhaur where you’ll stay the night, before heading back down into the canyon to Sangalle, then back up to Cabanaconde. Heading to Llahaur means you’ll be able to take in a geyser on your way and spend an evening in thermal baths.
Skipping San Juan de Chuccho means saves you at least 5km and 3 hours depending on the route you’d take back to Cabanaconde, but it’s still a very long second day. Ideally you’d turn it into a 3 day hike and spend a night in Sangalle.
3 day hikes
For those wishing to hike longer there are a couple of other routes of interest.
Cabanaconde – San Juan de Chuccho (stay) – Llahuar (stay) – Cabanaconde
Distance: 30km
Duration: 20 hours
This one is for the ultra fit, or those who are glutton for punishment. It’s a three day loops that covers most of the canyon’s hiking trails.
It’s certainly not for the faint of heart though, and includes a brutal 8 hour ascent on the final day. It also skips Sangalle which is a shame, but including it would add another 4 hours onto what is already a long difficult hike.
There are two ways you can make things easier on yourself. Firstly, do the hike in reverse. That means a longer descent on day one, but a shorter more manageable (but still difficult) ascent on day three.
Secondly, look into getting the bus back from Llahaur to Cabanaconde. The service is a bit iffy, so you’re best checking with Pachamama hostel on this one, or alternatively organise private transport back, but that will cost up to $70 split between four.
Why trek without a guide?
Independent hiking in Colca Canyon puts you in control of your schedule and pace. As a lover of photography and videography, I enjoy lingering at viewpoints, or taking random detours or tracks to things I find interesting.
Don’t get me wrong, some guided tours are great. I’m just not keen on set itineraries (or early morning starts). Hiking without a guide allows you to adjust your routes based on personal interests and energy levels.
On a sustainability level, local families benefit directly when independent trekkers stay at their homestays and eat at their establishments. The well-marked trails of Colca Canyon make navigation straightforward.
You just need make sure you’ve got a good map, and follow a few essential tidbits of advice.
Guided tours
I can fully appreciate that those on a tight schedule may well prefer a guide, or a tour with organised transport. You can find organised from Arequipa, or travel independently to Cabanaconde and join a tour from there.
As is typically in Peru, you don’t really need to book your tours too far in advance, but it does help massively if you do. Tours can be booked on Viator and cover two say and three day hikes of the canyon, including transport from Arequipa. Price start from $90 for a two day trek, to $130 for a three day tour.
Best Time to Visit Colca Canyon
The dry season from April to November offers ideal conditions for independent trekking opportunities, with clear skies and stable trails.
During these months, temperatures stay warm during the day but drop significantly at night, so pack layers.
More hikers visit between June and October, making advance bookings essential for homestays and lodges. Both of my visits were in late October, and conditions were perfect.
The wet season brings fewer crowds and milder nights, though February rains can make paths slick and challenging. Trail visibility stays good year-round, letting you spot condors gliding overhead.
The powerful sun demands protection regardless of cloud cover – wear sunblock and a hat even during overcast days.
Where to Stay When Hiking Colca Canyon
Cabanaconde serves as the main access point for trails. Most hostels and hotels expect that you’ll be visiting the canyon.
As such, they are usually happy to allow you to store your gear (or in my case my motorcycle), at the hostel while you are away, without having to pay for the night or two you aren’t there.
Booking.com has you covered here, with all the main places to stay in town listed. Here are a few of the best.
Casa de Santiago offers rooms with mountain views and private bathrooms with hot showers, though the owner speaks only Spanish.
Pachamama Hostel stands out as a hub for independent hikers, providing trekking maps and helpful trail information. I stayed here on my fist visit to the region, but found it full on the second occasion (be sure to book well in advance). I still returned for their pizza though.
Either way, you’ll want to stop off at Pachamama to pick up their excellent hiking map of the region.
Casa de Virginia maintains a quiet atmosphere with clean rooms and basic amenities.
Book accommodations several weeks ahead during peak season (May-September) when rooms fill quickly.
Most places accept cash only, with prices ranging from 25-50 Soles per night. The nearest ATM is in Chivay, so bring plenty of cash.
Along the trails, simple lodges in San Juan de Chuccho and Sangalle provide basic overnight stays for tired hikers.
Where to stay in Sangalle
Once you reach Sangalle, you’ll be looking for place to rest your weary legs. There are a number of options available, but given that you’ve just been hiking for past few hours, the last thing you want to do if have to traipse from place to place.
My last stay was at Eden Lodge, but Oasis Paraiso Ecolodge is also popular. Crucially, both have a pool. It can be hot at the bottom of the canyon, and splash in the pool is a great way to cool down and soothe your legs.
Both lodges and more can be found on booking.com. It’s worth saving the listings, and making a note of the prices, as often when you turn up, they will offer you something that doesn’t quite match your expectations.
The rooms listed on booking are usually the more expensive (by a small amount) ones, but are much higher quality.
What to know before you travel
Bring cash and lots of it.
Nowhere will accepts cards, and there’s no ATM at all in Cabanconde. The nearest ATM is 2 hours away in Chivay. Banco de la Nacion ATMs are free in Peru but you can only withdraw 400 soles at a time.
Acclimatise before you start
Cabanaconde is at over 3,200 meters and the trek into the canyon is steep and exhausting. If you arrive from Arequipa having only been to Lima beforehand, you won’t have experienced altitude of more than 2,300 meters.
It is over 2,500 meters where altitude sickness can start. If, you haven’t spend time above this before coming to Cabanaconde you may need additional days in Cabanaconde to acclimatise to the altitude before you start your hike.
Pack light
Ultralight is name of the game here. At times you’ll be on gradients of over 25%. Even the shorter routes are strenuous. Pack as light as you can, but do bring a sweater or warm jacket as while it hot in the daytime, it cools a lot at night.
Being sunscreen and a hat
You’ll be in the sun all day on your hikes. Bring sunscreen or a sun block, and a hat. You’ll also want a good mosquito repellant for when you’re relaxing down at the oasis.
Prepare to be off the grid
Parts of the canyon have cell reception, but ideally prepare to be completely off the grid. Download maps before you come, don’t use Google Maps, something like Organic Maps, of Gaia better shows the trails.
Bring some medical supplies
Bring basic supplies of pain killers, bandaids, a bandage etc.. You’ll be in a remote environment with few other people around. I met a woman who fell on her first day and dislocated her shoulder. She had to hike down Sangalle in severe pain, and didn’t have any pain killers with her.
The trail is rocky, and uneven, so twists, Spains, scrapes and bruises are all possible.