Once the capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco lies at the heart of the Peruvian Andes. Most tourists pass through on their way to Machu Picchu, but there’s so much more to discover.
On my first visit I spent over two weeks in the city, and what I discovered that will help you plan your trip to this historic city.
When to Visit Cusco
Cusco has two clear seasons, the dry season and the wet season, fortunately in Cusco, the wet season isn’t all that bad, meaning you can visit the city all year round.
The dry season runs from April to October and is the most popular time to visit. Despite being winter, the clear skies and mild days make it ideal for sightseeing and outdoor activities. Typically, you can expect highs of around 21 to 22 degrees celsius in the daytime, and lows from 2c to 5c.
Bear in mind that season also covers June, July, and August, which due to the summer holidays in Europe and North America, makes the busiest time of year.
The rainy Season is from November to March. Expect showers and cooler temperatures, but enjoy fewer crowds and lush, green landscapes. The shoulder months can be especially rewarding for those who prefer a quieter experience. Daytime highs hover around 19c, but and the nights around 7-8c.
December and January are the worst months for rain, but the rain typically falls early in the morning or late in the evening.
Both of the my trips to Cusco were towards the end go the dry season. There was occasional rain, but it cleared up fast. Most of the time I woke to sunshine and clear blue skies.
How to get to Cusco?
Cusco’s airport has international flights arriving from Santiago (Chile), and Bogota (Colombia), but if you’re travelling from outside of Peru, you’ll most likely have to fly into Lima.
The good news is that LATAM flies direct from Lima to Cusco almost 20 times a day. It’s an hour long flight, with prices start from $50 for a one way ticket, and $80 for a return, but be sure to check the latest prices on Skyskanner.
Bear in mind that flying in this way, you’ll be coming from near sea level to over 3,000 meters altitude. It’s important that you take time to acclimatise and don’t over exert yourself during the first few days.
For those that are already in Southern Peru, there are also direct flights from Arequipa. The flight time is again just under an hour and prices are similar to those from Lima.
If you’re coming in overland from Bolivia, you’ll find direct buses from Puno. It’s a long 6 hour journey, but you’ll see some fantastic landscapes on your way.
Bus to Cusco from Lima
The Lima – Cusco bus route covers about 1 100 km (700 miles) through desert and highlands in roughly 21–24 hours, with major operators like Cruz del Sur, Oltursa and Movil Tours offering ‘cama’ (fully reclining) or ‘semi-cama’ seats, onboard meals, toilets and sometimes wi-fi.
Buses depart from Lima terminals (Plaza Norte, Javier Prado, Atocongo) between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m., with overnight departures popular so you arrive relaxed and ready to acclimatise at 3,400 m.
Tickets run about S/ 90–185 (USD 25–50) and should be booked online in advance—remember to print your PDF ticket to exchange for a boarding pass.
How long should I spend in Cusco?
Trip length: 2-3 days for exploring the city, plus extra for excursions and acclimatisation.
At over 3,000m altitude you’ll want to give yourself a few days acclimatising before you set off on your adventures, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have fun around the city itself.
I spent two weeks during my first visit to Cusco, and a week the second time. It’s one of those places that just sucks you in.
Despite my time at altitude, I still found myself huffing and puffing from time to time whilst climbing steps in San Blas, and when heading up to see Christo Blanco or Sacsayhuaman.
The great thing about Cusco is that can be used as a base to explore nearby (and not so nearby) attractions, such as Machu Pichu, the Sacred Valley, and beyond.
I’ve included a basic 3-day itinerary further in the article to give you an idea of how to best spend your time.
Where to stay in Cusco (neighbourhoods)
The two most popular areas for visitors are around Plaza de Armas and San Blas. Plaza de Armas is the heart of the city, with easy access to restaurants, shops, and nightlife.
It’s lively, touristy, and convenient, though a little pricier. San Blas, on the other hand, is Cusco’s artsy, bohemian district, perched on a hill just a short walk from the center.
Here, you’ll find cobbled streets, artisan markets, and a slightly more relaxed atmosphere, though the altitude and steep steps can be a challenge.
I’ve stayed in both areas. I prefer San Blas for its relaxing vibes, and central location, with many of my favourite restaurants close-by.
Note: When walking around either neighbourhood you may get accosted by young and old women alike shouting “massage.” There is nothing sinister going on here. This is legit, and you’ll often find that even hotels offer massages.
Hotels and accommodation
There are literally hundreds of hotels, hostels, and guesthouses in Cusco at all price levels. Of course, where you stay will most likely depend on your budget, but either way you’ll want be in and around the Centro Historico, the historic old town centre.
Rooms book out fast, and your best bet for accommodation is to book well in advance via booking.com or similar. That being said, I’ll provide a few recommendations to suit different budgets and styles of travel, including hotels I’ve personally stayed at or visited.
San Blas – accommodation
Casa Sanblas – has matrimonial rooms starting at $77 a night, and suites from $130 if booked direct. This 3‑star boutique hotel nestled in the heart of the San Blas artisans’ quarter—just a 5‑minute walk from Plaza de Armas and landmarks like San Blas Church and the Twelve‑Angled Stone.
Enjoy cozy, art‑infused rooms, a sunny rooftop terrace, inner courtyard and bar, daily buffet breakfast, free Wi‑Fi, and 24‑hour reception.
Hotel Rumi Punku – is one I’ve passed a lot during my time in Cusco. Although I haven’t personally stayed here I have been inside and had a look around.
It’s housed in a 16th-century Spanish colonial mansion that boasts a total of three authentic Inca stone doorways, this charming 3-star hotel blends historic character with mid-range comforts.
Located on Choquechaca Street at the edge of San Blas, it features 42 rooms decorated in traditional country-style, a central courtyard garden, rooftop terrace, free breakfast buffet, in-room Wi-Fi, plus on-site spa services (deep-tissue massage, sauna) and 24-hour front desk. Its prime location puts you within a seven-minute walk of Plaza de Armas and a short stroll to artisan workshops and local markets.
Tierra Viva Cusco San Blas – is a comfortable 3-star boutique hotel set in a restored colonial house just a 5-minute walk from Plaza de Armas and perched in the artisan quarter of San Blas.
It’s a little more economical and modest, than the two listed above, but its courtyard, gardens, and leafy patios offer a rest-bite from the hustle and bustle of the city below.
Plaza de Armas – accommodation
Casa Biru – I love this one for its mix of traditional and comfort while being just a stones throw away from the main square. It’s a small boutique hotel with a 3.5 star rating and just 10 rooms which do sell out fast, so be sure to book this one well in advance.
Prices were firmly in the mid-range tier when I visited, but due to its popularly you can expect to pay between $100 – $150 for a king bed in a duplex with seating area.
Budget accommodation in Cusco
Jamuy Guest House, is a good call for low cost accommodation, and very close to Plaza de Armas. A double room with en-suite overlooking the old town will cost around $20 per person per night. A dorm less than $10.
For cyclists and bikers, then Hostal Estrellita, on Tullumayo is the place to be. It’s an old Hospedeje with good size courtyard for storing bikes and motorcycles.
The rooms are basic (very basic), and the facilities are shared, but it’s good place to meet like-minded travellers, and a sound location for exploring Cusco.
Be warned though, this place does get busy, and is hard to leave. During my stay countless other guests left only to return for one reason or another, or planned to leave but ended up staying longer than they intended.
It’s low cost, and offers a good free breakfast, though for a real treat, pop next door to the French-style bakery.
Qorianka hostel is a step up from that, with better quality rooms, and internet. Still no heating, though. Motorcycles and bicycles can be parked at the back of the courtyard.
It’s a family owned place, all of whom are super friendly and helpful. The family also arrange tours and excursions, making this a great place to stay if you want to visit some of the fantastic sights in the region. Including Machu Picchu, or help getting to Colca Canyon.
What to do in Cusco? – (Sights, activities and excursions)
Machu Piccu is major attraction in this part world, but there’s still plenty to see and do in Cusco and it’s surrounding areas besides Machu Piccu.
Plaza de Armas
Plaza de Armas is the main town square and the beating heart of Cusco. Yes, it’s over crowded, yes, it’s full of touts, and tourist traps but it’s worth a visit nonetheless. Not least because it’s a great place to orientate yourself within the city, and gain a respite from the narrow cobbled streets of San Blas.
Most of the key sights, restaurants and places of interest in Cusco are easily reached from here, if not on the square themselves.
Given it’s central location, you’ll likely find yourself walking through the Plaza multiple times a day.
Cusco Cathedral
Cusco Cathedral is an UNESCO World Heritage Site, and impressive display of Gothic-Renaissance architecture. It’s also one of the city’s greatest repositories of colonial art. Situated opposite the fountain on Plaza de Armas, it makes a great meeting spot for friends in the City.
Opening hours for non-worshipers are from 10am to 5:45 pm, and admission is 25 soles per person.
Qorikancha
Qorikancha—once the Inca Empire’s most sacred sanctuary—was dedicated to Inti, the Sun God, and earned the nickname “Golden Temple.” Situated on Avenida del Sol, it sits just a short walk from both San Blas and the Plaza de Armas, yet is often overlooked by travellers concentring their time in those two areas.
Admission is approximately 15 Soles (about USD 5), with visiting hours Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. On Sundays entry begins at 2 p.m. Inside, you can wander the open courtyards and admire the harmonious blend of pre-Hispanic stonework and colonial architecture.
Best of all, the temple terraces offer sweeping views over Cusco—no uphill climb to Cristo Blanco required.
Saksaywaman
Located in the San Christobal areas, this ancient Incan citadel just a stones throw away from downtown Cusco. It’s one of the cities most popular attractions thanks in part to it’s scale, and the precise building techniques that border on Tetris-level wizardry.
Hike to Cristo Blanco
If you’re looking to do something a little more active before you set off to Maccu Piccu, how about a hike to Cristo Blanco?
Towering above the city, the Christ the Redeemer statue was gift from Arabic Palestinians who sought refuge in Cusco after World War II, and is a popular attraction for visitors to the city.
Getting there is easy and free. Start from any point in town head towards the hills. Saksaywaman is on the hill on the left, whilst Christo Blanco is on the right. Both can visited within a morning, though there is a fee for the former.
Where to Eat in Cusco – the best restaurants
It’s easy to find a lunch for as little as $2 USD, but what sets Cusco apart from neighbouring countries is the sheer variety of food on offer. If you’re tired of the regular South American affair, you’ll have no problem finding high quality international cuisine here.
Whether it’s Thai, Indian, Chinese, American, Japanese, you name it, you can probably find it in Cusco.
There are literally thousands of places to eat in Cusco, but here are a few I enjoyed during my stay, including some lesser known gems.
Organika – Resbalosa
Best for: Healthy, vegetarian, local, dinner
If high quality locally grown food is your thing, then this is the place to come. The service is excellent, which isn’t always the case in South America, and the food is sublime.
Tucked way just a block from Plaza de Armas, this little gem of a place, offers a fantastic range of dishes made from locally grown produce from the sacred valley.
Pan Kracio – Recoleta 506
Best for: Sandwiches
Street food is a great way to save time and money when on the go, but after a morning of sightseeing, sometimes you just want to take a load of. For that, Kracio is perfect. This small sandwich bar may have a menu as small as its prices, but the sandwiches they do make, are great.
The brownie is also excellent, but for dessert I recommend the bakery just a few doors down, with its range of fantastic cakes.
La Gaucha
San Andres 309
Best for: Lunch, Empanadas
This is the THE place to go for authentic and creative empanadas in Cusco. There are tons of places in the main touristy areas selling overpriced microwaved empanadas. La Gaucha on the other hand is low on cost and high on quality.
I usually prefer my empanadas baked rather than fried, but this place was the exception. The care and thoughtfulness the two women that own the place put into each one (made fresh before your eyes), really sets it apart from anywhere else.
Down on San Andres, it’s a 6 minute walk from both Plaza de Armas, and Qorikancha, and yet remains off the beaten track for tourists. Google lists this as an espresso bar, which probably helps keep it one of the best kept secrets in Cusco.
The Curry House Korma Sutra
Calle Tandapata
Best for: Dinner, Indian obviously
Living in the UK, I’ve enjoyed some great Indian cuisine. To my mind this place is right up there with some of the best. If you’re tired of South American food, and crave a bit of spice of in your life, then Korma Sutra makes a great change from the usual affair.
Qucharitas – 385 Procuradores
Best for: Dessert
Whether it’s crepes, ice cream or a combination of the two, Qucharitas is undoubtably the best place for dessert in all of Cusco.
Top attractions near Cusco – Day trips and excursions
While the following attractions are not in the city of Cusco itself, they make excellent days trips when using Cusco as a base for local excursions. I visited all of these independently, but tours on Viator or Get Your Guide start from $34 upwards.
Cochahuasi animal sanctuary
Just 30km from Cusco on route to Pisac, the Cochahuasi animal sanctuary serves as a rehabilitation centre for various indigenous species.
The centre houses llamas, alpacas, parrots, pumas, and wild cats, but the stars of the show are the three huge condors, that you can almost get close enough to touch (don’t touch them though).
Entrance to the sanctuary is around 10 soles per person, and that includes a guided tour. Regular city tour guides/buses don’t stop here as the family that runs the sanctuary can’t afford to pay them. You can book a tour online though Get Your Guide
The centre depends on admission fees, donations, and animal friendly products sold in the souvenir shop, for its survival. There is little or no help from the Peruvian government.
Salinas de Maras
The small village of Maras is just 40km and accessible via paved roads. The drive through the hills and mountains that make up the sacred valley is spectacular in itself.
The salt pans themselves are a little way outside the village accessible only via dirt roads. This part of the journey too offers up some spectacular views of 5,000 or so individual pools.
Salt has been harvested here since pre-Incan times, and is collected by evaporating salty water from a natural underground spring. It’s a co-operative system worked by the local community. The great thing about this is that you can get right up close. Walk between the pools and even chat to the locals working them (some are more friendly than others).
Entrance to the area costs just 15 soles, (about $4), making the Salinas a budget friendly half-day out. The best time to visit is early in the morning or a couple of hours before sunset. During mid-day the glare from the salt can be oppressive. Bring sunglasses, strong sun screen, and a packed lunch.
Q’eswachaka
Known as the last Incan rope bridge, Q’eswachaka lies 80km south of Cusco and is only accessible if you have your own transport or take a tour. If you do you’ll be rewarded with stunning landscapes, and walk on a swinging rope bridge that’s straight out of an Indian Jones film.
Read more about it in my write up ‘Q’eswachaka: The last Incan rope bridge‘
Shopping in Cusco
If you’re in the market for an alpaca sweater, some hiking gear, or souvenirs you’ll be well servered in Cusco’s main square and its numerous side streets. While handicraft lovers, should head to Av. El sol.
If you actually to want to do some real shopping, you need to get out of the old town and head to the mall. It’s got all the deparment stores, clothes shops, and outlets you’d expect, plus it’s got the only proper supermarket. Yes there are supermarkets in and around the city, but they are small and lack choice.
3-day Cusco itinery
Day 1 – Explore the city
Plaza de Armas – Qorikancha – Cusco markets & boutiques
Your first day in Cusco is best spent taking it easy. Head to Plaza de Armas in the morning and explore Cusco’s main square and meeting point. Use it to orient yourself in the city.
If you’re a fan of local markets, take a 10 minute walk to San Pedro Market (Mercado Central de San Pedro) and enjoy a freshly made juice or some fruit. It will help with the altitude. You’ll see all kinds of weird and wonderful items on sale here, but the dried alpaca foetuses are probably best left alone.
Otherwise, browse the arcades and boutiques of Plaza de Armas and Plaza Regocijo.
Qorikancha is the next port of call. Entry is just $5 and there’s no need to book in advance. This iconic landmark offers a glimpse of the Inca’s archtecual and religious history. Its height also means you’ll be able to get your first Cusco cityscape.
Evening:
In the evening, I recommend a stroll around the San Blas area and its artisan boutiques. Explore its restaurants; rooftops here often have live guitar or Andean flute performances.
Day 2
Chinchero Disctric (sacred Valley) – Moray – Maras Salt Mines
With just 3 days to explore you don’t have much time to venture outside of the city, but this tour packs in a number of local sites without eating too much into your time budget or your wallet.
At less than $25, this six and half hour tour is one of the very best I’ve come across.
You’ll be collected from Cusco’s historic centre, and taken into the sacred valley to the historic town of Chinchero.
You’ll gaze out at snow capped peaks, marvel at the magnificent landscapes, and wander around Chinchero’s market, before moving on to Moray to discover its ancient Inca agricultural terraces.
The grand finale, is visit to the Salinas de Maras salt mines, where you’ll have a guide tour of the mines themselves.
Evening:
If you have energy left, book a folkloric dinner at Tunupa one night (music, dance, buffet)—it’s great cultural immersion without a late-night trek.
Day 3
Sacsayhuaman – Christo Blanco
Now that you’ve had a couple of days to acclimatise, I recommend to trip up to Christo Blanco for panoramic views of the city, and a tour (independent or guided) of Sacsayhuaman, the ancient Incan citadel.
If you’re feeling fit, I definitely recommend you walk up. If not, taxis are available, but you may still want to walk back down
Evening:
For the evening head to the ChocoMuseo (just off Plaza de Armas) for their evening “Choco & Pisco” workshop.
Here, you’ll learn about Peruvian cacao varieties and bean-to-bar chocolate-making. Make your own small batch of truffles or chocolate bars under the chef’s guidance.
Taste a selection of artisanal chocolates paired with classic Pisco Sours or other pisco cocktails on the rooftop terrace. All while enjoying views over the illuminated colonial streets.
It’s a fun, hands-on evening activity that balances culture, creativity and relaxation—plus you get souvenirs you made yourself!